Cycling the Shimanami Kaido: A Sporty Journey Through the Seto Islands
By Salomé Le Corre
Pedaling Through Paradise
There’s something invigorating about the crisp sea air in winter—especially when you’re experiencing it from the saddle of a bike, weaving through the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. And what better way to do it than by cycling the famed Shimanami Kaido?
A Winter Ride on Japan’s Scenic Cycling Route
In early February, we take on the challenge of cycling the Shimanami Kaido, a 70-kilometer stretch beloved by cyclists across Japan. The route links Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture, crossing six majestic bridges and revealing an ever-changing panorama of rural islands—Ōshima, Hakatajima, Ōhmishima, Ikuchijima, Innoshima, and Mukaishima. Reserved exclusively for pedestrians and cyclists, it’s an unspoiled haven for those who love the open road.
Our journey begins at the bike rental station in Imabari, where a range of bicycles—city bikes, mountain bikes, and electric-assisted options—are available. Rentals are flexible, allowing for drop-offs at designated terminals along the route. After a quick orientation, we push off toward the first suspension bridge, Kurushima-Kaikyō. The incline is noticeable, a small test of endurance, but the reward is immediate: sweeping views of the tranquil inland sea. As we follow the well-paved, mostly flat path, signs mark the distance to both Onomichi and Imabari, keeping us motivated.
Stopover on Ikuchijima: The Lemon Island
While the entire route can be conquered in a day, we opt to savor the journey with a stopover on Ikuchijima, known as “Lemon Island” for its famed citrus groves. After nearly 40 kilometers battling the winter headwind, we cross into Hiroshima Prefecture via the Tatara Bridge, just as the first snowflakes begin to fall. The contrast between the subtropical island landscape and the gentle snowfall feels almost surreal.
Setoda, the heart of the island, is a quiet retreat with fewer than 9,000 residents. Here, we explore the Kojoji Temple’s Three-Story Pagoda, a national treasure nestled in Choozan Park with a commanding view of the Setoda harbor. Nearby, the Kosanji Temple Museum beckons with its striking blend of architectural influences from Japan’s Asuka, Nara, Kamakura, and Edo periods.
Traditional craft shops and citrus-themed delicacies line the streets. Lemon-infused cookies, syrups, juices, salt, and even pasta entice us, and friendly shopkeepers offer samples. The off-season has its perks—fewer tourists, more personal interactions, and an unhurried pace to soak in the island’s charm.
The Ride Back: Art, Sunsets, and a Satisfying End
As we bid farewell to Setoda’s warm hospitality, we pedal toward the rental terminal at Setoda Sunset Beach. The scenery is nothing short of breathtaking—the sky is awash in late afternoon hues, and citrus orchards sway gently in the evening breeze. Along the way, we pass some of the 17 outdoor sculptures of the Island-Wide Art Museum, transforming the island into an open-air gallery.
For the adventurous, the journey can continue to Honshu’s mainland via Onomichi. Ferries offer another way to explore the surrounding islands, but for us, it’s time to head back by bus, our legs weary but our spirits full. Fifty kilometers of cycling later, we leave with memories of an island-hopping adventure where every turn of the wheel revealed a new slice of Japan’s natural beauty.